Hyundai Genesis Forum banner
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

· Premium Member
10,831 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for any damage you may cause to your vehicle or any injury to your person from attempting this mod as it is only a guideline to DIY & you work at your own risk.

I gave this DIY a 2 out 5 difficulty, but since I had to trim one of the gold 7/16 bolts by 1/2" & rethread it, I would qualify this as a 3 out 5 in my case. It was simply wrong packaging, it happens & CP-e was more than willing to ship out the correct bolt right away, but I had already taken care of it myself by the time I brought it to their attention. CP-e includes installation instructions with their mounts, but the additional pictures that I will provide along with some tightening torques that I think will work best that were not included should help those planning to take on this chore.

Tools needed: 17mm deep socket, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm & 19mm shallow well sockets, 3/8 drive ratchet (preferrably kneumatic), 19mm wrench, 3/16 allen key, torque wrench, 1"x1"x6" block of wood, floor jack & jack stands.

Start by jacking the front of the vehicle up using the cross member to lift the vehicle & placing jack stands under the front jacking points.

Then drop the jack down & move it out of the way.

Now remove the 12mm pinch bolt that holds the steering shaft to the steering rack. Lift up on the shaft & push it up into the car without turning the shaft, wheels or steering wheel.

Next remove the 12mm bolt to the plate/bracket on the drivers side of the rack.

Ok, remove the four 17mm bolts that hold the rack in place. Note: the driver's side bolts are a little longer & this is when power tools come in handy.

Then you can just let the rack hang there.

Next remove the 17mm bolt on top of passenger's motor mount & 17mm nut on top of the driver's motor mounts.

Now take your floor jack placing it underneath the tranny bell housing using a block of wood in between the jack & the bell housing. You will need to jack all the way to full extension in order to remove the driver's side mount.

Go underneath & remove the three 14mm nuts from the underside of each mount for a total of 6 nuts.

Now you can remove the OEM mounts with a little wiggling effort. Start with the passenger's side & then move to the driver's side. Note: The driver's side OEM mount will be a little more difficult due to the stud extending upward, but you can get it out with some effort.

The CP-e motor mounts came preassembled in my case & hope that's the way it is for all who purchase them, but if not they look pretty simple to put together & tighten down with the allen wrench. Even if they came pre-assembled, you should torque the allen bolts down in each mount to ensure that they are not loose. Also; here is a pic of the mount assembled along with the hardware in the order in which it is supposed to go.

OK, you are ready to install the brackets. Start with the passengers side using either bracket, gold flat washer, longer of the 2 gold 7/16 bolts & the aluminum puck with the greatest threaded angle. You will place the bracket facing downward up flat against the aluminum motor mount bracket still attached to the engine. Then insert the aluminum puck into the bracket so that the angle is facing the desired direction towards the fender. Now place the gold washer on the gold bolt & begin threading the bolt into the puck & snug down making sure that everything is seated properly & flat against the surface with no play.

Do the driver's side the same way except the puck will have less of an angle & the gold 7/16 bolt should be 1/2" shorter. If it is not .5" shorter, you will need to trim it at this point.

Finally, you can install the motor mount bushings. Start by placing the bushing in the bracket so that it lines up, slide a silver flat washer over the end of the 15x5.5 bolt & slide the bolt through the bracket, bushing & then other side of the bracket. Now slide the other flat silver washer over the end, followed by the locking washer & nut. Snug, but don't tighten at this time. Now lower the engine to the point that the mounts almost touch the cradle & align the holes on each side underneath the mount. Once aligned, install the three 3/8-16x.5 short bolts on each side up into each mount using your fingers or a socket with a piece of rubber insert to ease installation. Make sure the aluminum pucks are still straight & snug all 6 bolts down. You can now lower the engine down so that it rests on the CP-e motor mounts.

Finish up by tightening the six 3/8 bolts with 14mm socket, tighten the two 7/16 bolts on top of the mounts with a 16mm socket & tighten the 1/2-13x5.5 bolts with a 19mm socket on one end & a 19mm wrench on the other.

Bolt the power steering rack back in place by first intstalling the 4 main 17mm bolts, remember that the driver's side has the 2 longer bolts & snug them down. Now install the smaller bolt back into the bracket, which may need to be bent back into place from all of the steering rack movement. Finally pull the power steering shaft back in place carefully not to turn it & install the 1mm pinch bolt. Now just go back & torque everything down with a torque wrench if available.

My recommended tightening torques are as follows:
(2) Top CP-e gold bolt in each motor mount ~ 55 ft/lbs
(6) Lower 3/8-16x1/2" bolt in each motor mount ~ 40 ft/lbs
(2) Long 1/2-13x5.5 bolt with washers & nut ~ 65 ft/lbs
(4) 2 long & 2 short steering rack bolt ~ 65 ft/lbs
(1) Steering rack bracket bolt ~ 20 ft/lbs
(1) 12mm steering rack pinch bolt ~ 25 ft/lbs


· Premium Member
10,831 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice work man!

Do they have motor mounts for the 3.8 yet?
Yep & CP-e has got them on sale for 20% off on their site right now! So MSRP is $375, but you can get them for $300 plus shipping right now.

1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.