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10,831 Posts
I retrieved this from gencoupe & want to thank JohnPawlak for the OP.
"Some of you have already done this, but for those that are thinking about and haven't done it yet, this might help. I've got lots of nice pics, but the post counter won't let me post them yet. I'll edit it later when my post count is higher.
(Use at your own risk. This probably voids some portion of your warranty, and you'll be working near some air bag wiring, so you may want to remove the negative battery cable as a precaution.)
Also, I have a base 3.8. I'd guess the GT or track might be slightly different.
Step 1:
Get the tools and stuff you'll need:
10 mm socket, extension, ratchet, soldering gun, solder, wire cutters, pair of gloves, plus the new speakers. I used Pioneer TS-G1642Rs, but I think most 4 ohm 6-1/2" would work.
The OEM speakers are just 6-1/2 cones (no tweeter) and there only rated for 20W nominal (read cheap). I wanted more efficient, higher wattage speakers with a tweeter and the Pioneers were only about 50 bucks. Whatever you buy, make sure it's 4 ohms impedance (most are).
If you follow my mounting scheme, you'll also need (8) #8 x 1" machine screws, (4) for each side.
Step 2:
I'd put on a pair of sweats instead of jeans to avoid having the rivets scratch up your seats or plastic.
Start with the left (driver's) side:
Step 3:
Open the left door and pull off the left sill plate. It's not held in my any screws, just tabs. Seems easier if you start at the back and pull straight up.
Step 4:
Starting at about half-way up the back of the left door frame and working down, pull off about 3 feet of the weather strip. The idea is to free up the front edge of the rear left cover. The speaker is behind the left rear cover and the only way to get to it is to remove the cover.
Step 5:
Remove the left C-pillar cover (the cover above the truck deck on the left (driver's) side of the car). To do this, pry out the small circular cover in the middle of the C-pillar cover using your finger nail. Next, using a 10 mm socket, extension and ratchet, remove the single retaining bolt, and pull off the C-pillar cover (gently). Several tabs hold it in place in addition to the screw you removed.
Step 6:
Fold the seat down, and remove the two plastic screws in the left rear cover that are now exposed.
Step 7:
Now that you have the weather strip off, the C-pillar cover off, and the two screws out, the only thing holding the left rear cover on is clips. Carefully pull the cover away from the quaterpanel, popping off the clips in the process. Once the cover is off, you'll see the speaker mounted to the left quarter panel.
Step 8:
Unplug the speaker, remove the (4) bolts that hold it to the car using the 10mm socket, extension and ratchet, and take the whole assembly inside.
Step 9:
Next remove the (4) Phillips screws that hold the speaker retaining ring in place, and CAREFULLY pry the retaining ring from the speaker. Be careful not to rip the old speaker if you ever plan on using it again.
Step 10:
Unsnap the speaker wire harness (plug and about 2" of cable), and cut it from the OEM speaker. Cut right at the speaker leaving yourself as much wire as possible.
Step 11:
The Pioneer's don't have the same sheet metal lip that the original speakers do, so the retaining ring will sit about .060" higher with the new speakers. The interior cover will still fit over them, but the (4) sheet metal screws may not be long enough to hold the speaker in firmly. Plus, the OEM speaker bracket holes are just the right size to accept a #8-32 tap.
Tap each of the four holes in the speaker mounting bracket with a #8-32 tap.
Step 12:
Assemble the new speaker, mounting bracket and retaining ring with your (4) #8-32 screws. The retaining ring only goes on one way, but the speaker will go on @0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees. Only one of these positions will allow the short wiring harness you have to reach. Position the speaker so the short wire harness you have will fit.
Step 13:
Snap the plug of the wire harness back into the speaker bracket, and solder the two wires to the speaker, red to (+) and black to (-). It's much easier to do this if you assemble the whole thing, and solder last. Be careful not to drop hot solder on to the back of the speaker cone.
Step 14:
Reassembly: Mount the speaker assembly in the car with the (4) bolts, plug it in and make sure it works. Put the left rear cover on, install the two plastic bolts, install the C-pillar cover, and install the weather strip and the door sill.
Step 15:
Repeat for right side.
I like the sound much better. Rear speakers used to sound very flat. Now they sound better than the front.
Hope this helps.
John"
"Some of you have already done this, but for those that are thinking about and haven't done it yet, this might help. I've got lots of nice pics, but the post counter won't let me post them yet. I'll edit it later when my post count is higher.
(Use at your own risk. This probably voids some portion of your warranty, and you'll be working near some air bag wiring, so you may want to remove the negative battery cable as a precaution.)
Also, I have a base 3.8. I'd guess the GT or track might be slightly different.
Step 1:
Get the tools and stuff you'll need:
10 mm socket, extension, ratchet, soldering gun, solder, wire cutters, pair of gloves, plus the new speakers. I used Pioneer TS-G1642Rs, but I think most 4 ohm 6-1/2" would work.
The OEM speakers are just 6-1/2 cones (no tweeter) and there only rated for 20W nominal (read cheap). I wanted more efficient, higher wattage speakers with a tweeter and the Pioneers were only about 50 bucks. Whatever you buy, make sure it's 4 ohms impedance (most are).
If you follow my mounting scheme, you'll also need (8) #8 x 1" machine screws, (4) for each side.
Step 2:
I'd put on a pair of sweats instead of jeans to avoid having the rivets scratch up your seats or plastic.
Start with the left (driver's) side:
Step 3:
Open the left door and pull off the left sill plate. It's not held in my any screws, just tabs. Seems easier if you start at the back and pull straight up.
Step 4:
Starting at about half-way up the back of the left door frame and working down, pull off about 3 feet of the weather strip. The idea is to free up the front edge of the rear left cover. The speaker is behind the left rear cover and the only way to get to it is to remove the cover.
Step 5:
Remove the left C-pillar cover (the cover above the truck deck on the left (driver's) side of the car). To do this, pry out the small circular cover in the middle of the C-pillar cover using your finger nail. Next, using a 10 mm socket, extension and ratchet, remove the single retaining bolt, and pull off the C-pillar cover (gently). Several tabs hold it in place in addition to the screw you removed.
Step 6:
Fold the seat down, and remove the two plastic screws in the left rear cover that are now exposed.
Step 7:
Now that you have the weather strip off, the C-pillar cover off, and the two screws out, the only thing holding the left rear cover on is clips. Carefully pull the cover away from the quaterpanel, popping off the clips in the process. Once the cover is off, you'll see the speaker mounted to the left quarter panel.
Step 8:
Unplug the speaker, remove the (4) bolts that hold it to the car using the 10mm socket, extension and ratchet, and take the whole assembly inside.
Step 9:
Next remove the (4) Phillips screws that hold the speaker retaining ring in place, and CAREFULLY pry the retaining ring from the speaker. Be careful not to rip the old speaker if you ever plan on using it again.
Step 10:
Unsnap the speaker wire harness (plug and about 2" of cable), and cut it from the OEM speaker. Cut right at the speaker leaving yourself as much wire as possible.
Step 11:
The Pioneer's don't have the same sheet metal lip that the original speakers do, so the retaining ring will sit about .060" higher with the new speakers. The interior cover will still fit over them, but the (4) sheet metal screws may not be long enough to hold the speaker in firmly. Plus, the OEM speaker bracket holes are just the right size to accept a #8-32 tap.
Tap each of the four holes in the speaker mounting bracket with a #8-32 tap.
Step 12:
Assemble the new speaker, mounting bracket and retaining ring with your (4) #8-32 screws. The retaining ring only goes on one way, but the speaker will go on @0, 90, 180 and 270 degrees. Only one of these positions will allow the short wiring harness you have to reach. Position the speaker so the short wire harness you have will fit.
Step 13:
Snap the plug of the wire harness back into the speaker bracket, and solder the two wires to the speaker, red to (+) and black to (-). It's much easier to do this if you assemble the whole thing, and solder last. Be careful not to drop hot solder on to the back of the speaker cone.
Step 14:
Reassembly: Mount the speaker assembly in the car with the (4) bolts, plug it in and make sure it works. Put the left rear cover on, install the two plastic bolts, install the C-pillar cover, and install the weather strip and the door sill.
Step 15:
Repeat for right side.
I like the sound much better. Rear speakers used to sound very flat. Now they sound better than the front.
Hope this helps.
John"
