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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


For those who are not familiar with my mod list.
Note: the items listed in blue, I have already purchased.
Since I will be leaving the power level of my car stock until I have completed NASA HPDE1, I will focus on other areas of improvement initially.

Warning detailed list

R-Spec 2.0t 6spM/T

STAGE 1

Exterior

-Debadge
-Headlamp modification (NiteShades)
-Clear corner headlamp lens (GCTuner)
-7,500 HID low & high beams (Halo)
-Front & rear turn signals (Invisilites)
-Ceramic black tint windows 35% (Llumar)
-Paint roof black (CBW)
-CF functional heat extractor hood (VIS-AMS)
-Locking hood pins (Aerocatch)
-CF-X grille painted black to match roof (ARK)(CBW)
-Shave deck lid & repaint OEM red to match (CBW)
-Rear fiberglass deck lid spoiler (Ixion)
-Front urethane lip spoiler (VS)
-Modify fender liners & undercoat fender wells
-Modify front bumper bezels & install mesh
-Modify rear bumper valence (remove parachute)
-Modify front bumper for brake ducts from fog lamp blanking using 540i brake ducting - not installed yet
-Tow hooks (KPR)
-Horns (Hella)
-Wheels (18x8.5+22 & 18x9.5+22)(Volk TE37 Seibon Edition)
-Extended lug stugs (ARP)
-Racing R26 lug nuts (Kics)
-Tires (245/40ZR18 & 285/35ZR18)(Hankook)

Interior

-Modify upper display & lower facia storage panels for dual triple gauge pods
-Boost gauge (AEM)
-Wideband UEGO AFR gauge (AEM)
-Interceptor scan gauge (AeroForce)
-Oil temperature gauge (AEM)
-Oil pressure gauge (AEM)
-Water temperature gauge (AEM)
-Fuel pressure gauge (AEM)
-Single DIN tuner CDA 9820XM with KCA 420i ipod connectivity unit (Alpine)
-Punch single P3 10" DVC subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate)
-Punch 500w 2 channel amp (Rockford Fosgate)
-Punch mid door & 1/4 speakers (Rockford Fosgate)
-Track edition rear deck cover w/no 3rd brake lamp (Hyundai)
-Aftermarket shift knob (TiC)
-Aluminum heel/toe pedals (SRP)

Brakes

-Brake fluid (Motul 660)
-SS brake lines (KPR)
-Brake pads (Frixa)
-Ti backing plates (TiC)
-Slotted rotors (R1Concepts)

Suspension/Stiffening

-Coil-overs (MAX - USA Pro Series)
-Larger adjustable F&R anti-sway bars (Eibach)

Transaxle

-M/T gear oil (Redline MTL90)
-SS clutch line (KPR)
-Racing twin disc clutch (Exceladyne)
-Light weight single mass flywheel (Exceladyne)
-Short throw shifter (Torque Solution)
-Front shifter bushings (TiC)
-Aftermarket rear shifter bushings
-Aftermarket M/T mount
-2nd rear differential stabilizer mount (Hyundai) - not installed yet

Performance

-Engine oil (Castrol 5W30 synthetic)
-Accumulator (AGP)
-Breather (AGP)
-Radiator & cap (Mishimito)
-Silicon radiator hoses (MODE)
-Smaller radiator overflow bottle (Honda CRX)
-160 degree Thermostat (GrimmSpeed) - not installed yet
-Water wetter (DEI) - not installed yet
-P&P w/ceramic coating turbo, intake & exhaust manifold (MAP)
-3" Downpipe without converter (CP-e)
-3" Single exit cat-back exhaust (ARK)
-SS 2x thick exhaust gaskets (Grimmspeed)
-Turbo Blanket (ProjectPTP)
-Exhaust heat wrap tape (DEI)
-Exhaust high temp paint (DEI)
-SS exhaust manifold heat shield (MAP) - removed/sold
-Cold Air Intake (CP-e)
-Big bore T-body (TVT design) - not installed yet
-Intake Manifold Thermal Barrier Gasket (Exceladyne) - not installed yet
-Dual stage MBC (TurboXS) - not installed yet
-Race FMIC & piping (Buschur) - not installed yet
-BOV (Synapse) - not installed yet
-BPV block off plate (Buschur) - not installed yet
-Modify/fabricate front crash bar - not completed yet
-Aftermarket Internal WGA (Forge) - not installed yet
-Aftermarket electronic boost control solenoid (GrimmSpeed)
-Semi-larger inectors for shelf tune from Beyond Redline for now (550cc DeatschWerks)
-1 range colder spark plugs (NGK) - not installed yet
-WOT box (N2NB)
-50 durometer engine mounts (CP-e) - not installed yet
-Smaller washer reservoir (WW universal)
-Aftermarket braided fuel feed & return lines (Exceladyne)
-Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (Fuel Lab) - not installed yet
-Aftermarket inline fuel filter (Fuel Lab) - not installed yet
-Fuel rail fitting for return setup (AMS) - not installed yet
-Aftermarket oil cooler
-Aftermarket oil feed & return lines
-Aftermarket P/S cooler
-Mini battery (Braille)
-Shelf tuning from Beyond Redline (PowerX) - not installed yet

STAGE 2

Performance

-GT2871R dual ball bearing turbo w/ATP exhaust housing (Garrett)
-Larger injectors (660cc EvoX) - not installed yet
-Custom tune (PowerX) - not installed yet
-Aftermarket drive shaft

STAGE 3

Performance

-Forged pistons (Manly Platinum Series w/WPC Treatment)
-Forged rods (Manly Pro Series I-Beam Connecting Rods)
-Upgraded rings & bearings
-Upgraded cams (GSC S-1 Power Division Cams)
-Upgraded valve springs (GSC Beehive Springs & Titanium Retainers)
-Intake & exhaust valve guides (GSC Manganese power-Division)
-Upgraded main & head studs (ARP)
-Upgraded head gasket (SCE ICS Titan head gasket)
-P&P head/valve job/upgraded parts (MAP)
-Build motor (MAP)
-T3 style exhaust manifold (DEI)
-GTX3076R dual ball bearing turbocharger (Garrett)
-External Wastegate (Forge)
-Upgraded fuel pump (Walbro)
-Even bigger injectors as needed (DeatschWerks)
-Custom tune with standalone (HalTech)


Hopfully done at this point, just what ever misc comes up

BTW I will document each mod along the way with plenty of pics or video for the DIY section & will post a link in this thread in that particular part of the build.



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Looking good, brother. Can't wait to see those Volks on there!

:bow:
 

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Blah you got the tires before I did. I'm jealous. Let me know how they work though :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice list Tufast, let me know when you're ready for some power modifications if you're looking for some direction.
Oh, I definately will be coming to you for advise since you will have already traveled that road.

Blah you got the tires before I did. I'm jealous. Let me know how they work though :)
Well to be honest, these tires are a little to agressive for my level of driving right now & would not give me enough feed back on the track prior to the point that they break loose. So, I will purchase another set of less aggressive track tires to mount on the the Seibon wheels. Besides, the lack of power this car presently has would make it harder to drive with these tires anyway.


Oh yeah, I've decided to keep the stock 19"s for DD use now that this car is serving both as DD & Track car. Don't want to damage the Volks in fucking pot hole.



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that was quick...lol
Yup, once he sets his mind to something..it's as good as done.

Glad to see you in your car. Can't wait to see that car take on it's new persona, brother...hehe
 

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Well to be honest, these tires are a little to agressive for my level of driving right now & would not give me enough feed back on the track prior to the point that they break loose. So, I will purchase another set of less aggressive track tires to mount on the the Seibon wheels. Besides, the lack of power this car presently has would make it harder to drive with these tires anyway.


Oh yeah, I've decided to keep the stock 19"s for DD use now that this car is serving both as DD & Track car. Don't want to damage the Volks in fucking pot hole.
Really? Does that mean you'll sell them? :p

And Yes I agree. Keeping the original rims for DD. I was thinking of riding the volks for a little bit until the DD's get powder coated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)

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lol yeah its too cold right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
OK, 2nd Mod Done Today.

Well finally hit 1000 miles & decided to go into work today on my day off (I work every other Saturday) to change the oil & upgrade the brakes.



After some discussion with several parties, I've determined that Mobile1 synthetic 5W30 will serve my purposes just fine & will be much easier to access if I 'm in an emergency situation, unlike the other options I was thinking about. I purchased the big jug of 4.76 qts or whatever & I went with the Hyundai oil filter, not forgetting the drain plug crush ring. I poured the entire jug of oil in & put me right between the high & low marks on the dipstick...cool.

You will notice in the pic, camber bolts amongst everything, but the tech didn't get around to doing my alignment with new camber bolts. I guess it will get done next week sometime next week.


As for the brakes, there are no 2pc light weight rotors available that I'm interested in at this time, so I decided to install the rest of the brake parts I have already got for now & add the rotors later. The parts included Frixa street pads front & rear, TiC Ti backing plates, Motul 600 DOT4 brake fluid, KPR SS clutch & brake lines. I did use a BG brake fluid flush machine to remove fluid & bleed brakes 1st time & did them by hand the 2nd time. I also have a set of Frixa Race pads that I will swap out once I get to the track & back again B4 I get home.

This was by far the easiest brake pads I've ever installed & was on about the same difficulty level as the AGP accumulator & breather install. The lines were pretty simple & straight forward too. The only thing I can recommend is using an actual brake/transmission/fuel line wrench for the removal of end of the replacement line that connects to the line on the body of the car (not the caliper side). Originally I tried using the open end of an 11mm gear wrench & started to strip, but backed off immediately & borrowed an 11mm line wrench from one of my techs & was able to save the line.

For those wanting a DIY for the brakes, her you go; TiC stated it better than I could:
http://genesisforums.org/howto-fix-forum/4486-comprehensive-brake-info-thread.html
Another DIY on replacing brake lines:
http://genesisforums.org/howto-fix-forum/20087-replacing-brake-lines.html
Also; another DIY on bleeding brakes:
http://genesisforums.org/howto-fix-forum/20084-bleeding-brakes.html

Oh yeah pics B4 & after.
You will notice a black nipple on top of each brake caliper in each pic, but there are actually 2 up there, only I cut the other one off in pic. I mention this because these are your bleeder screws.














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Sweet I am learning more already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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Looking mighty fine there tufast. I like the piano black idea, personally if i had "extra money" i think id take mine down to a body shop have em cut out the top make a glass roof, with a dark tint on it... Just food for thought have you thought about maybe the jl 8" subwoofer, they have an amazing sound, tight base will hit nice
 

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Lookin good Tufast! I'm lovin' the tag team style build threads that are going on in this forum right now, we're covering every avenue with great detail! I'll be watching the handling type threads closely as I will be working that direction once the power package is complete!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lookin good Tufast! I'm lovin' the tag team style build threads that are going on in this forum right now, we're covering every avenue with great detail! I'll be watching the handling type threads closely as I will be working that direction once the power package is complete!
Yeah, you handle the power mods & I will handle the rest ;) & by the time we finish, we will be ready to switch & learn from the other.

BTW, front brake ducts coming real soon at no cost to me, I will fab up my own & give DIY to follow. Just waiting on ARK grille to be released so can do that at same time. :jump:



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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
what are the steps to bleed the clutch line and replace it?
The clutch line is replaced just like the brake lines.
- Start by loosening the line bolt on drivers side of M/T with 12mm wrench, but not to the point brake fluid leaks out
- Remove the clip that holds the line in place up top with a pair of pliers by pulling out on it until it is free
- Break the line loose from the line going to the pump by using 16mm to hold line at bottom & use 11mm box style line wrench to hold upper line to the pump
- Take out your new line & put a recovery oil pan under where you are about to work
- Line should only be about hand tight, so remove bolt out of tranny side 1st, then as line dangles, remove from upper line
- Install new line reverse order doing the upper connection 1st then to the tranny *note; do not tighten hardware, only snug down
- Adjust the line so that there is slack throughout
- Torque down all the hardware
- Reinstall the clip into the line to hold it in place up top where meets other line, you will need to tap in with hammer
- Remove filler cap & add brake fluid to full mark *note; don't overfill
or at this point you could flush system
- Bleed system

As for wrenches used, double check sizes, because I'm writing this from memory...

Thanks



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