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Tufast's Build Thread - Chapt 3 (Performance)

22K views 67 replies 20 participants last post by  Tufast 
#1 · (Edited)
STAGE1

OK guys, I can't take it no more! :aargh: I need MO POWA & have ordered alot of bolt-ons to help with this performance improvement. I will have 3 stages evolving over time regarding performance, just as there will be 3 stages to asthetics in my build. Stage1 asthetics is complete, although I will be adding minor asthetic improvements over the next few months (i.e ARK CF-x grille).


Performance

-Engine oil (Castrol 5W30 synthetic)
-Accumulator (AGP)
-Breather (AGP)
-Radiator & cap (Mishimito)
-Silicon radiator hoses (MODE)
-Smaller radiator overflow bottle (Honda CRX)
-160 degree Thermostat (GrimmSpeed) - not installed yet
-Water wetter (DEI) - not installed yet
-P&P w/ceramic coating turbo, intake & exhaust manifold (MAP)
-3" Downpipe without converter (CP-e)
-3" Single exit cat-back exhaust (ARK)
-SS 2x thick exhaust gaskets (Grimmspeed)
-Turbo Blanket (ProjectPTP)
-Exhaust heat wrap tape (DEI)
-Exhaust high temp paint (DEI)
-SS exhaust manifold heat shield (MAP) - removed/sold
-Cold Air Intake (CP-e)
-Big bore T-body (TVT design) - not installed yet
-Intake Manifold Thermal Barrier Gasket (Exceladyne) - not installed yet
-Dual stage MBC (TurboXS) - not installed yet
-Race FMIC & piping (Buschur) - not installed yet
-BOV (Synapse) - not installed yet
-BPV block off plate (Buschur) - not installed yet
-Modify/fabricate front crash bar - not completed yet
-Aftermarket Internal WGA (Forge) - not installed yet
-Aftermarket electronic boost control solenoid (GrimmSpeed)
-Semi-larger inectors for shelf tune from Beyond Redline for now (550cc DeatschWerks)
-1 range colder spark plugs (NGK) - not installed yet
-WOT box (N2NB)
-50 durometer engine mounts (CP-e) - not installed yet
-Smaller washer reservoir (WW universal)
-Aftermarket braided fuel feed & return lines (Exceladyne)
-Aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (Fuel Lab) - not installed yet
-Aftermarket inline fuel filter (Fuel Lab) - not installed yet
-Fuel rail fitting for return setup (AMS) - not installed yet
-Aftermarket oil cooler
-Aftermarket oil feed & return lines
-Aftermarket P/S cooler
-Mini battery (Braille)
-Shelf tune from Beyond Redline (PowerX) - not installed yet

BTW I will document each mod along the way with plenty of pics or video for the DIY section & will post a link in this thread in that particular part of the build.
Pics to follow once the parts arrive. As usual, I will provide details & a DIY for each install. I have decided to install each item one at a time & then drive for a while gettiing used to the new performance to see the benefits gained, paying close attention to wideband AFR readings. But, there will be no dyno until I install all the power parts & trailer the car in to be custom tuned most likely using a PowerX as tuning device. I'm hoping that Forge Performance out of Atlanta will become a PowerX vendor since they are a reputable tuning company & are relatively close to me. I had really hoped that RealTune would do my tuning, but they haven't moved to Carolina yet & are too far at this time. Maybe they will get to tune my Stage2 build :dunno: we'll see. I have decided against doing a baseline dyno pull since so many have already been done & the results are very close each time. So, I'm gonna cheap out & use an avg of the baseline pulls that have already been posted by members on both sites as my own to figure what kind of gains I get from the completed Stage1 mods.



 
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#8 ·
yeah, yeah I know boring w/o pics, but I don't want to be one of those guys that posts a pic everytime a part arrives. So, when all parts are here in the next couple of weeks, I will take a pic of all the parts together. Then post pics as I install them. ;)

Now that's a MOD List! Can't wait till you get it all done
Thanks & that is only the perfomance Stage1 part of my complete list. :rofl:

Upgrade the turbo & up the boost. Problem solved.
Big Boy turbo & mega-boost is coming, just not yet....babie steps LoL :jester:

can i ask why the turboxs dual stage mbc? why not go ebc and hbe able to have multiple settings and adjustments from the driver seat? I cant wait to see all this stuff go on and see what you will be putting down!
To be honest, when I purchased this dual MBC, I hadn't decided for sure if I wanted dual MBC or EBC, but my buddy Jarrod gave me a deal on this unit that I could not pass up. I may upgrade to EBC later down the road, but I'm starting with this & see how it goes. Once I set both stages, I hope there won't be that much adjusting to be done. But, this is my 1st turbo car & I'm still learning. :rofl:

Finally ready to up the power huh? If you needed some extra power all you had to do was lemme know and you coulda driven mine....hehe :D . Seriously tho, if you need an extra set of hands for anything just hit me up bro.
Been ready to up the power since I traded the bimmer, but my driving instructors & members on the NASA boards said don't do it....that is will be to my benefit to keep the power low initially. But, I've been to 4 events & I can't wait any longer.:rolleye:

You know how I like to do most work by myself so I can take my time & triple check everything. But, if I get to the point I can't do something by myself, I will hit you &/or Michael up to give me a hand.

Thanks to both of you for offering on a regular basis though. :bow:

"Extra power?" He's already been driving mine! :rofl:
Sweetie, thanks for letting me drive you SantaFe while my car is down. But lets be honest, my poor little 4cyl makes your 6cyl look like a 2cyl. :rofl::eek:wned: But, thanks again for letting me driver her, because she gets mewhere I need to go w/o breaking down & that's what counts.
 
#5 ·
can i ask why the turboxs dual stage mbc? why not go ebc and hbe able to have multiple settings and adjustments from the driver seat? I cant wait to see all this stuff go on and see what you will be putting down!
 
#6 ·
Finally ready to up the power huh? If you needed some extra power all you had to do was lemme know and you coulda driven mine....hehe :D . Seriously tho, if you need an extra set of hands for anything just hit me up bro.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Stock Dyno Graphs on Dyno Dynamics Dynameter

I put my stock exhaust back on & turned the wastegate back to factory position Friday night so I would be ready. Early Saturday me & Kim got up, got ready, stopped for a biscuit & headed toward Atlanta. We were headed to Forged Performance in Marietta to meet with Shariff & the whole crew. I can honestly say they are a great bunch. They strapped my car on the Dyno Dynamics Dynameter & let me set up my video camera to record the session. I will eventually post the vids. My car showed a little lower #s than what I'm used to seeing from most other stock 2.0t GenCoupes. I believe that this is due to the type of dynameter that Forged uses or maybe all the beating that I've done on this car over the last 10k miles just wore her out...LoL :woah:

High Speed Air Fuel Ratio


Torque (ft/lbs)


Boost Pressure (psi)


After they got done & we drove 2 more hours back home, I didn't feel like doing much. But the next morning early Sunday, I had to get to work. I had a baseline, now it's time to start tearing her down to begin the modding. Here's some pics I took.



 
#11 ·
Thanks buddy. Only issues so far have been with the stubborn turbo to downpipe studs/nuts & the turbo to exhaust manifold studs/nuts....what a PITA.

I resisted the urge for power as long as I could & only because I was advised to do so for the ease of learning to race. I'm not a seasoned race driver & only have four events under my belt, but couldn't take it anymore. I've had the car 8 months at the weak stock power level. Now lets see what we can gain from bolt-ons, then we will see what a tune will do. :evilgrin:

I'm hoping to attend 2 more events this year with the increased power & see how she does. :jump:
 
#15 · (Edited)
While I was having my baseline ran, I had Forged weld my aluminum Synapse bung in my IC cold pipe & a steel wideband bung in my DP. They did a pretty good job IMHO.



 
#17 ·
Some pics of new arrivals to be installed soon...

Here's a few pics of items I will be installing shortly, just waiting on some other parts to arrive 1st.

Buschur Race FMIC


ARK single exit CB


CP-e Hi-flow DP


CP-e 2.0t Intake


Exceladyne Twin Disc Clutch


Exceladyne IM thermal barrier gasket,
Grimmspeed EM, DP & turbo gaskets,
MODE silicon radiator hoses,
PTP turbo blanket & heat tape



TurboXL dual boost controller,
NGK 1 range colder spark plugs,
Synapse synchronic BOV,
Evo 600cc injectors,
N2NB WOT box





 
#19 ·
Thanks, but some of this stuff I've had for a while. I purchase items when there is a bargain price for what I want & I can afford it.

I'm finally going to get to raise the power :jump::clap::jump:
 
#21 · (Edited)
Nah, still waiting on my turbo, intake & exhaust manifolds to get back from port & polishing, along with ceramic coating. Then I will take it in for another dyno to see gains & post that. I will then follow up with turbo back exhaust & cold air intake installation along with another dyno to see gains. At that point I will be able to gauge my AFR using my AEM wideband, since I have a bung welded in my CP-e downpipe I'm running. I will then install the big bore throttle body from TVT if I still have enough fuel injector left to compensate without running lean. After that I will install the FMIC if I still have enough fuel, if not, I will wait & install FMIC with larger injectors, colder plugs & a few other items I have up my sleeve.
 
#22 ·
Update!

P&P parts are on their way back from MAP, so many mods to come real soon along with dyno results & many DIYs.

So stay tuned.....which reminds me, I will be getting her tuned sometime soon as well. :evilgrin:



 
#23 · (Edited)
#25 ·
CP-e motor mounts going in this weekend



motor mount kit weighed in at 8.6 lbs


also snapped a pic of the TVT big bore throttle body vs the OEM





 
#29 · (Edited)
That's exactly what I'm doing, although I would not call what I've purchased to install on my car as crap. I choose carefully & it is usually higher end stuff that I get. Once I get all my "bolt-ons" installed, I will have it custom tuned on a dyno by a professional & that sir will complete Stage1 ~ 270whp. Then I can move on to Stage2 which will include a 2.4L sleeved Stroker motor with forged internals, headwork with 5 angle port job & a TD05-16G "bolt-on" turbo. Stage3 will unleash the Kracken with a brand new Honeywell Garrett GT-X3076R turbo which should put me close to 500whp.....doesn't seem like I will be just bolting on crap forever, now does it? :rolleye::rofl:
 
#31 ·
Its all good Ian, I'm doing smaller power increment increases over time to increase the learning curve while on the track. I'm new to road course racing & don't want to go out there with no experience & a car with retarded power....baby steps for me sir. ;)
 
#32 ·
you make a very good point .. i hope you do well ..my days of owning rspec are numbered . my car is a big POS to say the least.. 10k miles and have 15k in warrenty work .. deal even put a set of michelinPS2 on car to shut me up .. didnt work ... ne way good luck ill be following along even after my poop is gone


Ian
 
#33 · (Edited)
Update on performance mods

Well I finally got my parts back from Modern Automotive Performance about 3 weeks ago & installed them. For those who need updating, I sent MAP my turbo, intake & exhaust manifolds (IM & EM) for an aggressive port & polish (P&P) job followed by ceramic coating. In addition I also ordered the stainless steel (SS) ceramic coated EM heat shield & a Mishimito radiator. The parts took longer than I expected, but were worth the wait.

Prior to installation, I decided to heat wrap the OEM EM. Upon start up of the vehicle smoke poured from around the wrapped area accompanied by a terrible odor. I knew that some smoke & smell would accomodate the newly wrapped EM due to the high temps & the left over moisture in the wrap from all the water drenching. I opened a thread on GenCoupe since I knew of several members over there that had heat wrapped their exhaust. The job was done properly, but I was told that the OEM EM might be a little too flat & the material too thick to dissipate the heat well enough. So I removed the heat wrap & decided to use it only on my down pipe (DP) when I install it soon.

After removing the heat wrap, I restarted the car. Shortly thereafter the OEM temperature gauge rose quickly up to the red zone & I cut the car off. It was trying to overheat while sitting at idle & I had a pretty good idea why. One of the mods I did during the period while the car was down was the throttle body (TB) coolant bypass. This is a simple mod where you take the two small coolant lines running to the left side of the TB when facing the engine & reroute one line on the TB nipple back to the other nipple creating a loop on the TB. You then take the other line & loop it back to the metal coolant lines in front of the valve cover. I decided to try a little different route that I had discussed a while back on the TB coolant bypass thread which did not work. So, I just switched the coolant bypass back to the way it was supposed to be done & resolved the overheating issue.

Once again I started the vehicle, but this time I had my Aeroforce scan gauge set on coolant temp & upstream cat temps. Once the vehicle approached 175* farenheit the RPMs would rev up & down constantly between 1500-2000rpms until I cut the vehicle off. It eventually set the check engine lamp (CEL) & I used the scan gauge to get the code, which was PO068. The code has to do with manifold air pressure (MAP) range performance. So I started to diagnose the issue by checking the obvious things first like the connections to my MAP sensors, one located in the intercooler (IC) cold pipe prior to the TB & the second one located in the IM itself. The connections were good, so I spent several evenings swapping out known good MAP sensors one at a time with mine & rechecking the concern. Sensors were good as well as the wiring & connectors going to them. I started another thread on GenCoupe regarding the issue for some feedback since that site is much more active with the hopes of resolving it.

The following weekend after the initial install, I decided since the MAP issue wasn't corrected with the sensors I would remove the IM. I proceeded to drain the coolant & removed the coolant upper bypass hose & upper radiator hose. I then disconnected everything on the IM in order to prepare to remove it. When I finally got to the point of removing the IM, I found that the hardware holding it in place was loose. Hmmmm, bet that is the reason for the issue at hand & the CEL. I could of sworn that I tightened those down to specs, but I guess when I went inside to sign on to the Hyundai Service Website in order to get the torque specs for the IM, I got side tracked & forgot about it. Then when I went back to work on the car & seen that the IM was installed, I just went ahead & hooked everything back up. :eek:wned: So I went ahead & torqued the IM down to specs & reassembled the lines, hoses etc. Reinstalled coolant & started her up with no issues.... YaY!!! :clap:

Finally get to test drive the car for the 1st time & she cuts out around 4k rpms anytime I breach that RPM range on the tach. I figure maybe the car's ECU is just learning the new changes due to the P&P work, so think little of it. On the test drive up to the nearest gas station about a mile away, the temperature gauge starts rising almost to the red by the time I get there. I know its not the TB bypass this time, however when I refilled the coolant, I noticed she didn't take enough & figured that there was a air pocket in there. I ran the car for nearly 10mins prior to the test drive trying to get the air out to no avail. Sometimes you just have to drive them in order to get to good operating temps & move the air pocket around. Anywho, I fill up with gas & add some additive since the car has been sitting for so long. The car cooled down enough for the drive back home as I coast into the driveway as the temp gauge makes its way back up to the red again. I let the vehicle sit over night & on the following day found when I checked the coolant, the level had dropped dramatically. I topped off the coolant & retest drove with no more overheating issues, but still had the throttle cut at 4k rpms.

I returned to the thread that I started on GenCoupe regarding the CEL & mentioned the cut out around 4k. I got some helpful advice this time from surfmavrik & SteveJohns who are pretty tech savvy to begin with, but also have vast knowledge regarding WOT box operation, each having one installed on their own Coupe. SteveJohns recommended hitting the button on the box to override it in order to see if the issues went away when the WOT box was not in operation & sure enough they did. To get everyone up to speed, I had installed the N2MB WOT box during the time while the car was down. The WOT (wide open throttle) box allows for no lift shifting & launch control for those who don't know what I'm referring to. Also there is a DIY that I posted in the FIX forum giving more details as well as installation procedures. Anywho, surfmavrik mentioned right off that it sounded like I had my clutch switch signal inverted going to my WOT box. He recommended downloading the software from N2MB & changing some of the parameters, including the clutch signal. After the software changes I test drove it with no more cut out at 4k rpms...YaY!!! :clap:

After driving the car for a couple of days with no issues, the CEL popped back up & my favorite code PO068 was back on. I had already spent enough time checking the 1st time to know that it probably had to do with the IM gasket. See I also upgraded the IM gasket with the Exceladyne phenolic spacer offering from Beyond Redline when I went back together with it. The first time I may have left the hardware loose going to the IM, but I was sure I didn't this time. So I suspected it was due to the gasket itself even though I was told by Beyond Redline that the IM gasket could be used alone without an OEM gasket on either side of it. I brought the question to Tim@Beyond Redline via pm to confirm that no OEM gaskets were needed since the GrimmSpeed IM pheno gasket does require an OEM gasket on either side of it. He said that it would be fine w/o the OEM gaskets & their gasket was reusable. At this point I just wanted my car running properly, so I decided this past weekend to take the pheno gasket out of the equation by removing it & replacing it with the OEM original gasket I had removed upon initial disassembly. So far, I have had no more issues regarding the CEL or drivability & I've been driving the car for 3 days. The only thing I have to follow up on now is a few drips of oil that I noticed in the garage today from where the car was sitting. The only thing I disconnected oil related was the oil lines going to the turbo & that is about where the residue is in respect to where the car was parked. I will recheck the lines to insure neither loosened up nor the O-rings were damaged.

The GOOD news! :clap: I've made an appointment next Tuesday for dyno pulls at Forged Performance to see the gains from the work MAP did. :shifting: Then I can finally move forward installing some of my bolt-ons & give dyno results for the parts that I install. My best guess is that I may have enough fuel for the ECM to correct AFRs for turbo back exhaust (TBE) & cold air intake (CAI). I will install only the ARK catback initially & get dyno results, then the CP-e DP with dyno results & then the CP-e intake with results. At that point I believe I will need to tune for additional fuel & will install the rest of my bolt-ons including injectors. I plan to trailer the car on my car hauler to Forged to be custom tuned via Veocom onto my PowerX module while on the dyno. I will keep everyone updated. :jump:

Sorry so long winded.........Oh yeah & some pics:













 
#34 ·
Looks awesome dude, I am for sure a fan. Very clean very tasteful! +1
 
#36 ·
Thanks, that what I'm going for.....clean, even slightly evil w/o going over board.

Damn, sorry about all the headaches, but I guess when you are one of the pioneers you are always going to run into issues.

How do you like your HELLA horns?
Yeah, still one last headache....found oil leak from turbo oil return line where I didn't install the gasket when I went back together with her & lost the gasket along the way. So I had my parts mgr order me 5 of them over night express & will hopefully be back running in the next couple of days. Sad news is I had to cancel my dyno pulls tomorrow & will have to reschedlue with Forged. :rolleye:

The Hella horns look cooler than they sound IMHO. The sound is much louder than the OEM setup, but is not as pleasing to the ear as I would of hoped. Really sounds like a loud '72 VW Beetle horn IMO. :dunno:
 
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